For the past 20 years, hollow out (Openworked or Skeletonised) watches from exclusivity to common process. So, we can’t help but ask, how does hollow-out become a key feature of the modern wristwatch?
A watch of the Maltese engraving of the Maltese river
The concept of hollow-out can be traced back to the establishment of the clock core architecture. In the 1760 s, the French master Jean – Antoine Le ́ pine initiation the bold ideas of manufacturing thin pocket watch, the movement he founded the base plate and the bridge plate architecture continues to this day, the very beginning. Jean – Antoine Le ́ pine master (and father-in-law) Andre ́ – Charles Caron, realized that by revealing the mechanical mechanism, more can raise customer interest in a pocket watch, when the customer is Paris courtiers. The same was true when the watchmaking industry sought a Renaissance in the 1980s and 1990s.
Only a handful of wristwatches have been hollowed out – a 1964 ultra-thin hollowed-out wristwatch (uncarted) and a series of 1970s series of wrist watches with the Caliber 1003. But in general, the concept of hollowed-out was carried forward until the watchmakers emerged from the quartz crisis. About 20 different types of hollowed-out wristwatches are all the rage, the refined craftsmanship and baroque grandeur, perfect for a rebranding industry. There is no doubt that hollowed-out wristwatches have the charm of a beautiful spirit that needs to be savored by the lens of an inch, and is also a fine spirit that can attract the attention of the wrist. The watchmaking industry embraces hollowed-out, as with other great decorative techniques such as enamel, carvings and inlays.
Arnold & Son, the hollow treatment begins with the substrate
Like other disciplines, hollow-out is faced with the shortage of skilled craftsmen. At that time, Armin Strom was a clock repairer who used his free time to create. Armin Strom was the mainstay of his career at the 1984 Basel international watch and jewellery show, which showcased his first personal hollowed-out wristwatch. By the end of the 1980s, he had focused on making a wide variety of omega superdominant wristwatches out of his wristwatches. In 2006, Armin Strom went one step further and founded its own brand, which is hollowed-out. Another famous master, Jochen Benzinger, has provided a hollowed-out custom service for other brands of wrist watches, while on the other hand, the prototype old core has been used to create complex hollowed-out designs.
Richard mill RM035
At the turn of the century, Richard mill founded the eponymous brand with the support of APRP, which has a partial ownership of the company. From Jean – Antoine Le ́ pine, Richard mills in mold, the first breakthrough almost completely abandon the base board, designed with the least amount of metal to all parts of an integrated security framework, build the hollow out the intention of the movement is self-evident. Creating hollow core from scratch is not only a technical breakthrough, but also the biggest change in clock design in decades.
A Richard mill machine is being assembled
“In the first place, the guiding ideology of this approach comes from my passion for racing cars and airplanes,” says Richard mill, describing the pioneering approach to the initiative. I was fascinated by what was under the hood and wanted to see how everything worked, so from the very beginning I decided to design a hollow core. Moreover, almost everyone today is consciously or unconsciously oriented by technology. With regard to his influence, Richard mill believes, “I may say that I have dispelled the fear or the formality of the industry for the naked core, and now everyone is free to try this design.”
Watch of wrist of Angelus U21
As the watchmaking industry realizes that processing technology has reached the point where it can eliminate the need for cut-out process middlemen, the school is getting bigger and bigger. As you might expect, from Angelus to Manufacture Royale, from Armin Strom to Roger dui, the avant-garde independent tabulating brand is the most loyal practitioner. But the trend has spread and is far from over.
Graf, for example, is like a giant gem wireframe, the Athens watch that shines in the rectangular box of managers. Again, such as Louis vuitton first Geneva seal the tourbillon wristwatch, chanel watch of wrist of elegant camellia, and Ralph lauren hollow out automatic watches, it has been seeking to enter advanced tabulation fashion brand design language of the world. Even the fashionista, who is not known for her fashion, launched the tourbillon limited wristwatch in 2016 and embarked on an open road.
The opening of the core, the disappearance of the dial, has infiltrated the mainstream sports wristwatch manufacturers, thanks to jean-claude biver. In 2009, the company launched the brand’s first hollowed-out wristwatch, which requires a shot of performance-enhancing drugs, as well as the current real force. This is the hallmark of the tag Heuer 01 wrist watch and the underlying theme of El Primero Defy Lab’s watch. It is not limited to LVMH’s brand, but br-01 watch dial no longer exists when beris wants to take on a new look.
However, how does this affect those brands that traditionally view hollowed-out as protected areas? Once, the hollow-out needs to be done by hand, restricted to high prestige; Now, more affordable hollowed-out watches have sprung up, and the former will respond.
A new style
Love the royal oak watch
Love the royal oak watch hollow core
The more traditional tabulation brand, design has entrenched, turned suddenly to Richard mill type futuristic hollow-out style, but also has emerged as a less extreme style of modern hollow out TAB. One by one, tabulation brand gradually give up carving and polishing by hand, to use black and gray anodized bridge plate, rely on matte, grain and satin handle present fine polishing effect, such as watches audemars royal oak and girard-perregaux Laureato wrist watch.
Cartier mysterious hour hollow-out watch
In some cases, this new hollowed-out style is perfectly integrated with existing designs — the best example is Cartier’s hollowed-out Roman digital wristwatch, and the ultra-thin cut-out timepieces of bulgari and the count. Nowadays, few brands deliberately cater to the traditional concept of hand-carved/hollowed-out wristwatches. The truth is that almost no one has done it the traditional way: it is not logical to insist on a manual cutting of the bridge when the machine can reduce its consumption by 90 percent. While the exterior remains traditional, the technology has played a role, both jiang’s and the integralist confirmed. “Since 2008, we have been working in the lab to redesign the hollow-out, to make it more precise and reliable,” said Stephane Belmont, of the family. But we still make prototypes by hand, cutting the deck, just like we did before.
Jiangshidan, hollow base board and then carvings
Perhaps the most numerous hollowed-out models in the archives of jiangshidan are the brand’s introduction of hollowed-out technology into wristwatch manufacturing, which will assess the hollow-out potential of any new core. It is important to note that, even in the case of advanced tabulating brands, it is very rare to rely on in-house manpower to complete all the sculpting and polishing work. That’s right. Before the craftsman took over, the machine had already started the process.
The only exception seems to be patek philippe, said Philip Barat, the head of the brand’s watch development division. “we first process the entire base plate in the workshop, then the line cuts the excess. The manual finishing steps are mainly carried out in workshops, and some may be completed by independent professional craftsmen. Hollow out parts of chamfering is three times longer than carving time, with the same type of movement (such as Calibre 240 ultra-thin automatic winding machine), compared to need additional 5 months, so it will be altogether 14 months.”
Patek philippe, constantin and gerasti have all emphasized the commitment to the traditional appearance of the hollowed-out watches, acknowledging that the exquisite manual finishing and new industrial wind are incompatible.
A 1928 product home hollow pocket watch
Stephane Belmont notes that the popularity of technology reduces the popularity of traditional hollowed-out wristwatches. “there are a lot of very simple, unpolished pieces on the market. The public feels a little confused, like a tourbillon; They used to be unique, but on the one hand, more affordable products are emerging, and on the other hand, the level and reliability are poor, which makes the situation confusing.”
Today, they still produce between 100 and 200 hollowed-out watches each year. Stephane Belmont readily admits that the change from the Cheap nixon watches effect has been “more masculine, more powerful, more powerful”, but there is no sign that the integrateswill follow suit.
As always, even if technology is behind the scenes, there will always be a traditional place in the tabulation industry. But if you continue to follow the definition of a modern wristwatch, you will see more and more of the elements that have been removed from the dial.